Probably the most famous place in Kolkata after Victoria memorial, and a visit you shouldn’t miss – Kalighat temple. Even going as far as naming the city (so it is said), Kalighat is a small temple located on the banks of Adi Ganga (a canal) connected to Hooghly river which, flows through Calcutta.
Now Kalighat temple is particularly sacred, it’s one of the 51 Shakti Peethas of India; When Shiva danced with Sati’s bodies on his shoulder, it scattered and fell in 51 places. Kalighat is where the toes of her right foot have fallen, and since the feet hold a particular importance of respect and reverence in Indian culture, Kalighat is pretty important.
Although the original temple is mentioned in 15th century texts and was only a small hut, the current building was built by the Sabarna Roy Choudhuri family in 1809… with great Victorian stylistic influence ; very much full of flowery tiles.
Not to miss! the Kali idol inside is unique; black with three big red eyes and a big golden tongue. She also has 4 arms that are almost impossible to spot under the sheer amount of flowers and garlands covering her.
Within the same complex you find a tree that sort of looks like a cactus called the Sosthi tala where people make offerings of little pebbles that they tie to rope and then to the tree, mostly women praying for fertility (actually this altar only has female priests).
On the other side of the temple complex we find the Harkath tala with two sacrificial altars, one for goat and the other for buffalo. During the goat bali/sacrifice, the animal is swiftly beheaded, the meat is used to feed people as Prasad and the scraps are given to the many dogs that live nearby.
From the metro station, if you walk on Kalighat temple road you’ll see A LOT of shops selling everything to do with pujas: sindoor, Idols, the famous Shakhas that are white bangles of conch-shell and pola are red bangles made of red corals which are worn by married women in Bengal, alta, photos, and a lot of other funky things, you can even biy nighties.
From a more personal point of view; I find it pleasant to sit in the Natmandir, not to look at the idol but to observe the dusty chandeliers ( Dust and grime, circa 1850s ) and bells that hang from the ceiling, listen to some women chit-chat, watch the guides ask for donations, people shouting the price of flowers, and observe playing puppies.
After visiting the temple I usually head towards the canal Adi Ganga. There you find the Kalighat bathing ghat, tiny shrines everywhere, sweet shops, children playing and more sweet making. When the water is high people enjoy bathing, kids go crazy jumping from the boats and the marble floor is very slippery. Its especially nice to wander through the small adjacent lanes, mostly for the presence of many drowsy cats and street cricket matches. Along Adi Ganga you can finds pottery makers, pots of any size, and also of the Chai cups. Bit further is Mother Teresa’s Kalighat Home for the Dying Destitutes or how it is now called , the Home of the Pure Heart (Nirmal Hriday).
At night, the sweet chops are in full swing, mounds all around. It’s really something to see, the precise and swift sweet making gestures of the men that make them. And because its dark if you walk through the lanes you can catch a glimpse of house interiors (mea culpa.)
North of the temple, around Kalighat road is a red light area, and a rather large food and commodities market, which, as you guessed, is called Kalighat market; a real labyrinth of stalls selling everything and anything.
temple timings:
Monday to Sunday: 4am – 10:30 pm
metro: Kalighat
CalcuttaCat 